Go or No Go?

Requisite Half Dome Picture

Grouse wandering next to the trail

Shoes are constantly filled with sand!

Campsite with an awesome view of this tree

Day 1: 8/6/20

Start time: 5:00 A.M.

Finish time: 3:20 P.M.

Total time: 10hrs 20 minutes

Mile Marker: 23.1

Miles Hiked Today: More than 23.1

(Walk from the backpackers camp to the Mist Trail to the Happy Isles Trailhead. Less than a mile I think)

I woke up today at 4:15 A.M., just before my alarm went off, with an energy that could be better described as "might as well" than "raring to go".

About two and a half weeks ago I got shin splints in my right leg while running from a lighting storm on a training hike.  I have been worried this trip was shot as a result. Ultimately I decided I'd rather try and have to bail than wonder if I should have gone for it. My leg had been feeling okay the two days prior to leaving. 

I had a feeling by the end of today I would be at a binary decision if I can do this or not.  Now I'm at a solid maybe? I think so?  Today didn't present with any pains outside of the typical backpacking for 10 hours pain. About the midway point I felt 100%.  Then I remembered the shin splint pain was worse going downhill and almost non-existent going uphill. If you look at the elevation profile for the JMT today was about 5,900 feet of elevation gain in the first 16 miles. Not much in the way of downhill.  I'm now thinking coming down from Donohue pass tomorrow will be a better test.  I also had less than a full day's worth of food with me. Tomorrow I'll be carrying 4. However I will say today significantly increased my confidence.

Overall the hiking was great.  Leaving so early and on a weekday meant I had the trail almost entirely to myself. When I got to the top of Nevada falls there wasn't a single person there. Oh and Yosemite Valley is astoundingly breathtaking.  I had seen much of the valley on a previous trip with two of my friends, so I focused more this time on just taking it in than taking pictures.

Once I got close enough to Tuolumne I started to hit day hikers and a few backpackers. My favorites were the family that told me to "Get ready for those switch backs, they're tough" when I'd already been hiking uphill for 14 miles, and the group that said "wow hiking the uphill with a smile" when I had finally hit what I was considering flat terrain.  That kind of banter is all part of the fun as far as I'm concerned.

Only downside of the day was my water filter.  I swear I backflushed it like crazy before I left it dry for storage. Today's flow rate said otherwise. It took forever just to get a single liter filtered. That's going to be problematic.  I have backup purification tablets good for 8 liters, but that's it.  I talked to some NOBOs who said they thought Red Meadows had tablets, but no filters. 

Feeling Worked

This rock slide would be the trail In Pennsylvania

Day 2: 8/7/20

Start time: 6:15 A.M.

Finish time: 6:15 P.M.

Total time: 12 hours

Mile Marker: 47.3

Miles Hiked Today: 24.2

This morning I could not get out of bed.  I was hoping to start at 5:00 A.M. again, but I really needed the extra hour of sleep.  The day started with a somewhat boring trek down a flat, sandy trail. I could have made a sandcastle with the amount I kept pouring out of my shoes.  When I finally got to the ascent of Donuhue Pass, I had that "Here we go!" moment. I rounded the corner and saw the first big mountains with snow still in shaded contours and a roaring creek off to my right. Then a small lake when I got up to the base.  Yosemite valley is incredible, but much of the first section routes around it through shrub brushes and a burned area.  This section kicked off the JMT experience I was looking for.

Once I made it over Donohue that marked the exit from Yosemite. The rest of the hiking was arguably easier than yesterday, but carrying an extra 3.5 days of food made a serious difference in my pace. I'm not looking forward to the 5 day resupply out of Muir Trail Ranch.  

The other delay of the day was the agony of trying to use my clogged water filter.  I finally rage quit and flipped over to my emergency purification tablets, which are nice to have but not ideal.  If you've ever accidentally drank pool water, think of that taste.  Then imagine you're sweating to death with no tree cover and your only option is to drink liters of it voluntarily.  That's what purification tablets are like.  

Around 2:00 P.M. I decided I don't have enough tablets, so I might as well try percussive maintenance to see if that helps the filter.  It didn't remove any clogs, but it did free the factory lock so I could unscrew it.  It looked like the clean sides of the filaments had become closed/clogged.  I brushed them with my toothbrush and soaked them in clean water. It made enough of a difference to make filtering bearable.  I am personally excited to learn over the next two days if I've genuinely fixed the problem, or if I've created a delightful cross contamination loop of false hope that allows the parasites to host a dance party in my intestinal tract.

After that the rest of the day was smooth sailing, if exhausting. I was hoping to quit earlier to get more sleep tonight, but I needed to make my miles.  I also didn't encounter any signs of the shin splints coming back, so I'm cautiously optimistic the rest of the trip will work out.

Egg Wash and Batter Me, Because I'm FRIED!

I found this cool bowl to camp in above the trail

Day 3: 8/8/20

Start time: 6:25 A.M.

Finish time: 7:00 P.M

Total time: 12 hours 35 minutes

Mile Marker: 70.7

Miles Hiked Today: 23.4

Today I had a stop at Red Meadows resort for lunch in my sights.  I hiked most of the 12 miles there without stopping. I got a double cheeseburger with potato salad and a Dr. Pepper as soon as I got there.  Had I known they meant a pound of potato salad, I would have gotten the regular cheeseburger instead of the double.

I ended up hanging out there for two hours while I waited for my body to finish turning my massive lunch from regret into fuel.  At this point hiker hunger has not yet struck.  I've actually been struggling to finish my food allotments.  I ended up dropping all of my Gatorade bars in their secret because of COVID but not so secret hiker box.

While I was there I chatted with a hiker named Dave who I passed earlier on the trail and accidentally startled. He said it was unusual for him to get passed, so he thought I was a bear at first.  I can see how that's the case as he is the only person I've seen with a smaller pack than mine.  

Reds is the classic hiker "town suck".  They had showers, laundry, food, and cabins.  If I weren't committed to a schedule it's the exact type of place a pop in would turn into an overnight for me. Related note; what was I thinking with this schedule?

The hike in was ugly and hot but mostly downhill. The hike out was uglier, hotter, and all uphill. Doing so with a sack of potatoes in my stomach was even worse. However I felt more pity for the poor souls who had ordered large milkshakes and hadn't yet realized their strategic error.  

The sun was absolutely brutal all day and a solid chunk of the trail had no tree cover. I'm hiking in a sun hoody with a hat and sunglasses, but I could still feel my face getting burned. My knees and oddly my calves were getting roasted too. Thankfully I have plenty of sunscreen, but boy was it miserable.

Miles: Check

Day 4: 8/9/20

Start time: 7:10 A.M.

Finish time: 7:50 P.M

Total time: 12 hours 40 minutes

Mile Marker: 94.9

Miles Hiked Today: 24.2

Today was pretty uneventful. Just one of those grind it out kind of days.  I will say California's ability to churn out 90 degree heat at 10,000 feet is boggling to me.  I'd be lying if I said it wasn't affecting me.  It also turns out my filter fix didn't really work, so I'm losing more than an hour a day to filtering water.  

Tomorrow is resupply day and my half way point.

Ghost Town

Day 5: 8/10/20

Start time: 6:30 A.M.

Finish time: 6:05 P.M.

Total time: 11 hours 35 minutes

Mile Marker: 115.1

Miles Hiked Today: 20.2 + 2.5 miles to pick up resupply

I am now 100% convinced Yosemite stopped back-filling canceled permits. Now that it's a weekday there is virtually no one out here. I only saw five other JMT hikers the entire time I was at the resupply. For perspective 45 permits are issued per day.  It's weird, but I'm not complaining.

This morning I got to Marie Lake at 9 A.M. and had the whole place to myself. I took a much needed dip to cool off, rinsed out my clothes, and just baked on a slab of granite before I was ready to finish heading over Selden Pass. It was magnificent.

This morning made up for yesterday's banal scenery.  It was mountain lakes and vistas the whole way down. The cool breeze coming off the water made the hiking much more enjoyable.

I made it to Muir Trail Ranch to pick up my resupply in time for lunch. They don't offer any food or drink onsite, but I included cupcakes and a shelf stable pasta dish for myself. Very nice reward while I was sorting through my bucket.

The haul out of there with five and a half days of food was pretty brutal. It's also the first time I started feeling some pain in my right shin again.  After some stretching, massaging, and a shoe adjustment it was fine the rest of the way.  As a silver lining there was a light thunderstorm with some drizzling rain and cloudy skies for a few hours as I finished up the day. The break from the sun helped offset some of the burdensome weight.

Sierras are Finally Delivering

If ever you’re struggling to find purpose, remember this sign exists, and know you’re doing okay.

The famous “Monster” on the trail

Day 6: 8/11/20

Start time: 6:35 A.M.

Finish time: 6:25 P.M

Total time: 11 hours 50 minutes

Mile Marker: 138.5

Miles Hiked Today: 23.4

It only took 100 miles, but the Sierra's finally delivered today.  I've had some moments so far that have been beautiful, but today was gorgeous all day.  

I've been pretty spoiled having the Rockies as my playground.  It's hard not to make apples to apples comparisons while I'm hiking.  So far the Sierras have been putting forth a Red Delicious effort.  Bright and pretty on the surface, but mealy and unappetizing when you dig in.  Today we hit a new level of apple. I have no idea if Opal Apples are the pinnacle of the apple world, but my sister goes bonkers for them every year when they hit the produce shelves.  Today the Sierras brought that Opal Apple energy all day long.

I had to make it over Muir Pass, and it was breathtaking the whole way up and the whole way down.  I made it to the top in time for lunch and got two bites in when the rain storm I was sure would pass let me know it wasn't going anywhere.  I quickly packed up and headed down while it was a light drizzle.  The drizzle got harder and colder and eventually turned to graupel.  Even still it was beautiful hiking.  I welcomed the colder weather while it lasted.

I Could've Planned that Better

Halfway between the passes and the regret of doing them both in the same day really set in

Day 7: 8/12/20

Start time: 6:50 A.M.

Finish time: 7:00 P.M.

Total time: 12 hours 10 minutes

Mile Marker: 163.3

Miles Hiked Today: 24.8

My goal since I've started has been to hike more than the 22 miles a day minimum where I can.  The intent being to shorten my final day up Whitney. One it will be nice to end on a "light" day, and two it should better sync my schedule to the day hikers who I hope will take pity and give me a lift into Lone Pine.

So far planning on the fly one day at a time has worked.  Last night I realized I was going to have to do both Mathers and Pincho Pass in the same day to make my miles.  Thankfully it was a gorgeous day with a blue bird sky, but hiking both passes today made for some exhausting hiking.  

Real Monday Vibe for a Thursday

This bridge was unexpectedly wobbly

Day 8: 8/13/20

Start time: 6:50 A.M.

Finish time: 6:45 P.M.

Total time: 11 hours 55 minutes

Mile Marker: 184.9

Miles Hiked Today: 21.6

Have you ever had a day that starts with an annoyance right out of the gate? For me it was the terrible downhill trail made of steps and sharp rocks that absolutely brutalized my ankles and feet before they were warmed up.  Then before you know it you've made a laundry list of all of the things you're upset with? Only to realize you're probably just in a bad mood?

I think the hiking yesterday and the poor night's sleep took a rougher toll on me than I realized.  I was dragging all day.  What I really needed was a shower and a nap.  However neither of those were an option. The only treatment I had available was to apply miles liberally until mood improved or destination was reached.  Neither of those ended up happening for me today, but I've still got two days of ointment left.  I have a strong suspicion the medicine will take hold soon.  

T-Minus One

Day 9: 8/14/20

Start time: 6:45 A.M.

Finish time: 5:30 P.M.

Total time: 10 hours 45 minutes

Mile Marker: 206.3

Miles Hiked Today: 21.4

This morning the trail and the weather made up for yesterday. I only had 4 miles to get over Forester Pass and I was there by 8:30 A.M.  The rest of the day was mostly cruising on incredibly well maintained trail.

Around 3:30 P.M. a thunderstorm rolled in to let me know who was still in charge.  It lasted about an hour and then moved on.  Tomorrow I have 4 miles until the official end of the JMT on Mount Whitney.  I'll then have to hike another 10 miles to Whitney Portal and try to catch a hitch to my motel. I can't begin to explain how excited I am about the prospect of a shower.

Lift Off

Day 10 8/15/20

Start time: 4:35 A.M.

JMT Finish time: 6:55 A.M. (Whitney Summit)

     Actual Finish: 12:30 P.M. (Descending Whitney)

JMT Total time: 1 hours 20 minutes

      Actual time: 7 hours 55 minutes

Mile Marker: 210.4

JMT Miles Hiked Today: 4.1

Actual Miles 15.4

Just pure euphoria.  I learned long ago to temper my excitement when coming down from the summit while others are still going uphill.  A cheerful good morning is not what they are looking for while they are sucking wind and you're taking your victory lap.  Today I learned the opposite is also true.  Apparently double timing it up the mountain in running shorts and a sun hoody while smiling ear to ear wishing everyone on the way down in puffy jackets and beanies a good morning earns you scowls as well.  You just can't please some people.

Getting to the top was surreal.  It was very much like every other 14er in many ways. Covered in rock with spectacular 360 views, but too far away for a camera to do justice.  It was an odd mix of "I ACTUALLY MADE IT" and "Yup, looks about right."

On the way down I was able to find Mount Muir by spotting some other hikers that beat me to it.  I couldn't spot it on the way up.  It's another 14er just off the Whitney trail, and ending the John Muir Trail on Mount Muir just felt right.  It was surprisingly more difficult than I thought with some light class 4 involved.  The last move seemed like it might be a bit too tricky to down-climb in trail runners, so I sort of wiggled up on my belly to tap the top. Still counting it!

After that detour I was practically running down the mountain with a virtually empty pack. I could hear my cold soak jar banging around my empty bear canister and kept thinking I can't wait to be done with those.  With about six miles left I had to remind myself I couldn't finish the rest of the trail on pure adrenaline.  At that point I'd only had two protein bars and a liter of water.  After pausing in the only square foot of shade I could find to refuel, I continued my power walk down the mountain.

At the bottom I was rewarded with a bacon cheeseburger and two Gatorades.  I also started chatting with two hikers named Dan and Bridge who I'd asked about Mount Muir on their way down.  They had arranged a ride into Lone Pine already and let me pitch in to ride in with them and avoid a hitch hike.  The Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce (aka Kathleen) picked the three of us up in a Tesla.  Somehow sitting in a car that nice made me feel three times as dirty. Kathleen was an absolute treasure though.  She is a fifth generation Lone Pine resident and told us all sorts of fun stories about the town and herself as she shuttled us in.  Perfect end to a spectacular trip.